Love Aesthetics

November 16, 2012

Margiela Irony


Fake Louis Vuitton handbags and Louboutin lookalike heels behind me in the queue yesterday morning at H&M. I couldn’t help but overhear their wearer’s conversation about the Maison Martin Margiela collection (as did everyone else within a range of 50 meters). One of the girls yelled at the other about how plain and basic she found the clothes.

Previous experiences regarding Margiela clothes were much more subtle to say the least; recognizing four white stitches on that random girl at the bus stop dressed in black, making eye contact and smiling, because you know; she knows. She appreciates MMM, she knows what she is doing, she is sensible enough, she did her share of research, she found that hidden store in Brussels or Paris, she just knows.

Now I was standing in line at the H&M fitting rooms. On one side of me there was a view into the archives of the Maison; huge panels with images of white boxes with handwritten texts like ‘automne/hiver 2007’ alongside couture mannequins. On my other side; the loud group of Kardashians, who were just about to try on the faux fishnet leggings. My thoughts; you have no idea what you are buying into. A bizarre situation you could say.

About the clothes; no disappointment there. For the first time an H&M designer collaboration delivers a full range of faithful re-editions from the archives. The pieces lived up to MMM and weren’t some diluted version of it. I wonder if the Diesel group consulted Martin Margiela before selling parts of his life’s work to H&M. These historical pieces add lustre to name of H&M. Even now, after a day I don’t really know what to think/write about this ironic collaboration of two opposites. Exclusivety vs. mass production, anonymity vs. celebrity frenzy. One side of me loves it, one side of me is confused. Is it a H&M x Diesel Group or an H&M x Martin Margiela? Just like the Kardashian-girls; I have no idea what I just bought into,

107 responses to “Margiela Irony”

  1. Laura says:

    Big smile. Thanks for this story!
    First thing it thought when I saw this necklace in the ads: This is something for Ivania. So I was right I guess 😉 I got the body and the hairy necklace.

  2. like the way you write about this collection and the buyers. (kardashians) a name which describes it so well.

    best wishes from germany

  3. You have written down what I was thinking yesterday when I walked into H&M. People who were looking at the clothes, laughing about, telling how “ugly” the collection was. I was just looking and them and thought: “How dare you making such a statement!” Hate those kind of people. You don’t have to love it, but…

    Thanks for this post!

    – Dani

  4. Camille says:

    I’m with you on this, I’m not sure whether to be excited about what Mr Martin Margiela would have hated, especially as this is the exact opposite to all of what he and his secretive brand stood for. At the same time, you’ve got to hand it to H&M for not screwing this up and making it a truly fantastic HIGH STREET meets HIGH FASHION collection to buy into. The idea itself might have been confusing, but H&M executed it flawlessly, in my opinion anyway.

    Have you seen this?

    Can’t wait to see you style the necklace

    Camille x

  5. Amy says:

    I get your point of view…. I think every designer who has collaborated with H&M has thought about these points, but in the end decided that this mass production would gain more for the label then it would cost the label… in some cases I beg to differ.
    But On twitter I read that: hardly any items were on “marktplaats” or Ebay, due to the fact that only the people who really wanted an item, were out shopping. Not sue if that is true… but for those people (including me haha) it’s nice that MMM becomes accessible for them…. otherwise these lovely items we’re so out of reach (hello price tag)….
    Okay I’m side tracking: I get your point of view… no idea what we just bought into!

  6. HONEY says:

    i agree with you, it’s almost what we who know and love margiela know that margiela would never do. margiela is for the people who understand margiela ( i don’t want to sound too snobish… but it is!) but it was very lovely to see that here in portugal (where i live and am from) only the real deal bought this collection. there where no kardashians (only about the candy clutch, somehow people got overly excited about it) and it was a very lovely shopping experience that otherwise i would never have, since margiela for me.. well, only on the outnet!ehe

  7. That is exactly was I was thinking! I was just quite, when everybody was talking about how “unwearable” and “ugly” the mmmhm collection was.

    Really, what did they expect?! What is closer to a real MMM piece, than a re-edition of former collections? I totally agree, that this H&M collaboration is really authentic.
    I think most people never even heard of MMM before and don’t even know what the style is about. Still, they are queuing in front of H&M… I don’t really understand that.

    But as you said- I’m not quite sure what Martin Margiela would say himself. As it is no longer “his” label, they probably didn’t even had to ask for a permission…

    I also bought some things:

    Greetings from Germany. Love your blog!

  8. My thoughts exactly!
    However I’m happy that I was able to buy an affordable piece of high-end fashion.

  9. Yes Camille I did read it, brilliant article, agreed with half though, the end of the article came off quite snobbish and pretentious

    At Amy; No I didn’t mean that I didn’t know what I’m buying into. I meant; that I didn’t know if I was buying an H&M x Diesel group or a H&M x Martin Margiela

  10. Zoë says:

    Loved the collection, but I’ve always had mixed feelings about designer collabarations x H&M…

  11. TheGirl Chic says:

    Excelente post!!!! é um coleção incompreendida daí os stock mas ao mm tempo há quem incompreendendo se atraia pelo label, nao por o reconhecer mas porque é label!

  12. Marie My says:

    What an amazing necklace – and what a great post 🙂 You write so well, I could keep reading for hours!

    Love, Marie

  13. fox hunter says:

    such a good review.. thank you! i know what you mean, still confused but happy about this collaboration 🙂

  14. I bought the same bracelet and if I could afford, I would have bought half of the collection. not because I desperately want some MMM pieces (which you don’t get from H&M as the business of fashion article pointed out in the rightw ay I think), but because I actually like the ideas behind those clothes. they’re intellectual, that’s what makes them great. and btw I have a taste for stuff that is observed by most people as ugly 🙂

  15. Nomadic D. says:

    I think it was a great collection, the only designer collab I’ve ever lined up for and I wasn’t disappointed at all. I don’t think the fact that some people buying it didn’t know much about it or were possibly misguided or ignorant or however you want to think of it, should color the way you think of the collection as a whole. Fashion is/should be available to everyone, and that’s the whole point of these highs street collaborations. I would be wary of buying into the concept as a whole while still maintaining a somewhat elitist view of it. I myself bought the circle shirt and couldn’t be happier with it!

  16. Lümi says:

    This comment has been removed by the author.

  17. PiF PaF says:

    that’s a point!but still i like this collaboration 🙂 and I like the ideas behind those clothes…sad but true

  18. Charlie says:

    I had the exact same experience, stuck in a queue of women who had no idea what they were buying into, probably only wanting to sell it on eBay and make a quick buck anyway!

    I was actually pleasantly surprised by the fabrics, I found the shoe quality to be pretty close to the other MMM footwear I have.

    All in all a successful collaboration, but one I’m sure wouldn’t have taken place if Margiela himself were still at the helm.

  19. Frl. Müller says:

    Hehe same for me! One girl even said the pumps with the glass heel were “stripper shoes” I mean come on! But I think Margiela is really a brand that has an audience of its own. Either you know, or you don’t, and if you don’t, you don’t buy it and stay with your branded fake clothes. That’s allright for me! 🙂

  20. K says:

    I partially agree here. The collaboration between H&M and Maison Martin Margiela is slightly ironic as the masses that go crazy for the collection aren’t the typical MMM-wearer, they might be a bit more – yes – a bit Kardashian-like. But I disagree with the notion that some commenters here might have that when you don’t “understand” MMM means you don’t deserve to own a piece, be it a collaboration or not. That’s like saying someone who listens to Justin Bieber or Lil Wayne(which indicates a poor “understanding” of music) shouldn’t be listening to the Rolling Stones or Mozart. Art, despite being very personal, is also something that unites us a humans. Art broadens horizons and I’m all for making any kind of art more accessible and less elitist. Everyone has the right to be able to appreciate art on any level. Personally I think the H&M collaborations are a great way to give “real people” access to or a taste of well-designed clothing and accessories. The fact that some people buy into the collections because “It’s designer” is their prerogative. It doesn’t make them less appreciative or less deserving than someone who’s been following the brand for years on end. However, the ethics behind “fast fashion” are a completely different story here, one which deserves much more attention in these consumerist times. Avoiding fast fashion for ethical reasons is a much stronger argument than avoiding it because “you don’t know how to wear it when you can’t really afford it”…
    (And yes, I did buy items from the H&M x MMM collection…)

  21. Don’t really like that necklace

  22. I’ve had similar thoughts. Also before this colaboration. Since I like MMM but I like Diesel group… a little less.

    The day of the H&M + MMM launch a blogger I know wrote that she was wearing Tabi boots and everyone was staring at her in Milan. That says a lot. Maybe now a few more people will know eveything about the “MMM H&M collection” but will never know anything about the MMM ones.

  23. thank you K, completely agree, happy that you did get my point. I described these girls to illustrate the contradictions, not to talk about who deserves it or not. And though it does, I don’t think that it’s H&Ms sole goal to make fashion democratic. Unfortunately they are not that nobel. It’s to get us taking, it is to gain Maison Martin Margiela’s lustre and celebrity approvals. But then at the same time it’s great that some of H&Ms profits ($48mil) do end up at the actual fashion house who comes up with the ideas that eventually trickle down to their racks. It is just so mixed, this collaboration is full of contradictions on all levels!
    and yes, as you can see I also got some. 🙂

    H&M is also (very)slowly moving away a bit from fast fashion, they have a more expensive line with more high quality pieces or the COS stores which carry pieces which are much more timeless and less disposable as the typical H&M pieces.
    Or this collaboration, people value these pieces much more and will not be likely to dispose them within a season.

    did you read the article on the business of fashion?

  24. Mode Junkie says:

    so well written babe! loved reading this as i share to 99% of your thoughts.

  25. we had the same feelings.

  26. I really like your post! I made a similar one with my thougts about the collaboration If you find the time, you really should read it!
    I really love MMM and it’s obvious that this collaboration only could happen because mister margiela himself has left MMM. Hearing ‘famous’ belgian(!) (even from Antwerp) blogger say they like HER collection, really made me cry.
    Keep writing posts like these because then you find out you’re not the only one with the same opinion.


  27. K says:

    Thanks for replying to my comment. Yes, the goal of any company is to earn money, so I do know H&M’s not the “noble enabler” that I might have portrayed them as, but more my opinion on the concept of such collaborations from a “fashion” or “design”-standpoint. I guess I was replying more to my fellow commenters than to your post, as your post was more balanced. I did read that article you’re mentioning a few days ago and while I do see the point of the author, I think the problem he’s describing isn’t really a “fashion” problem, but more of a consumerist problem. His views on taste and style are ones I find quite pretentious, as well as his assumption that everyone has the time and money to develop a great sense of style (and if you don’t, you shouldn’t even try…).
    As for H&M, you probably know it was just revealed that workers in their production facilites in Bangladesh were being paid below minimum wage. And you don’t see Mr. Rabkin mentioning that.

  28. I wasn’t expecting the MMM collaboration to create the same hysteria as the others beacuse I found it more eclectic.The fact that it did, makes me think a lot of people wanted it for the label(not Margiela particularly, but the idea of a designer label) and that’s just sad…

  29. Your text made my smile and think at the same time. To me too, this collaboration was the first one, I could really appreciate and I have to say that I have been very positively surprised by it too! I totally loved the idea of re-editing old collection pieces and bringing them back at H&M. Not sure if the next collab will nail it that well too…

    All the best, Mary ♡ Fashionbirds

  30. I agree with you on this. I did a lot of research when I found at that H&M’s next collaboration was to be with Margiela. And I’m stunned, like you, that two opposites like that would cooperate. I guess money is the case here, which it’s always is.

    Margiela is not my type of fashion, but I really liked the glass-heeled shoes! Perfection!

  31. Laura L. says:

    I love the simple design and the fabric.
    It’s perfect.
    Good choice!


  32. Sarah says:

    kinda wish we had an h&m just for something like this.. i love that it hasn’t been toned down too much to appeal to the majority of people.

  33. i am with k here.

    isn’t margiela about subversiveness? and not about exclusiveness and elitism and building walls between people? his work is about breaking up closed systems, about learning how and why the world literally is constructed around us. that’s why i think, after all, it would be best not to “buy into” his work at all OR make it available for (almost) everyone (however, obviously, i am not legitimating h&m or diesel’s actions with this point in the slightest).

    for me, it’s art because everyone can find a level on which they are able to approach margiela’s work and make it their own. not being super-informed about something is only stupid when people deliberately choose to keep up this status quo – while exclusiveness of wisdom has always been abuse of power. so i was a tiny bit disappointed by your article.

  34. Camilla says:

    I am wholly confused aswell, but I do like that they re-worked and re-used old designs instead of designing some new stuff that doesn’t actually represent the brands true aesthetic at all

    xo Camilla

    Into The Fold

    p.s I started a youtube channel, check it out HERE

  35. Shaina says:

    I went into H&M, waited on line to see the new MMM collection, but then I ended up leaving empty-handed. It just was not what I expected. However, i did really like the accessories: the bag and industrial looking jewelry.

  36. cyeoms says:

    I’m impressed with how gracefully your story explains interesting experience. i enjoyed reading your post as well as these thoughtful comments. x

  37. Emma says:

    Bizar, artistic. Zal je mooi staan!

  38. i like it and i think this necklace would be nice on your neck

  39. Bri Wang says:

    To be honest, I thought the collection for H&M was a bit mediocre. The problem with these collaborations is that you have to appeal to such a new audience, and there’s no way to go 100% with the original aesthetic. Sales don’t really come out of that.
    It’s a bit disappointing, but to most people, it’s only a business if people are making dough.



  40. I think it’s a great collection but I totally understand your confusion.

    LOVE BO,

  41. Anonymous says:

    Just a correction: “in the queue” and not “in the cue”, whose meaning is completely different!

  42. Sharon says:

    Ik vond de combinatie ook heel appart, maar ben er wel erg blij mee!

    Vond bijna alles van de collectie geweldig!

  43. Leah Nielsen says:

    Great little opinion piece, I appreciate your thoughts.

    I would say there’s more commercial benefits than artistic but maybe we can think of it as reproduction prints! Great pieces but not quite the real thing. Love MMM designs regardless! <3

  44. thanks anon for the correction; is much appreciated

  45. Rebecca says:

    i think if you like something enough, whether it’s as cheap as chips or really expensive, who cares who else is wearing it, its you!

  46. Anonymous says:

    I feel like you should buy what you like … Who cares about others opinions…. Fashion is just that…. Price tags do not take away from the actual design itself, …some people can not look at what talent it actually takes to conceive such amazing garments… Yeah they are reproductions but it doesn’t make them any less lust worthy … I waited for 5 hours yesterday just to be let down when I got into the store finding 3 girls bought the entire selection of jewelry just to sell it on eBay!!!! You got very lucky to get that collar….I’m drooling over it,,,,,,!!,, I love your blog…thanks for sharing always Justino

  47. Anonymous says:

    It all seems to be a contest to see who can show off what they got that you did not. I find it quite frustrating, people buying it to fill the ego as opposed to actually wanting it …or wanting it because others will think they are cool !

  48. Bostonista says:

    Ugh. Those girls make me….just…ugh.

    I can’t wait to see which pieces you picked up! I couldn’t brave the cold for the line although in Boston, come to think of it, there probably wasn’t much of a line since I don’t know that the market is sophisticated enough to appreciate MMM.


    PS: Come and enter my latest giveaway with Rent the Runway! xooxxo

  49. i am so glad you didn’t just do the typical blog gush of appreciation a lot people buy stuff for the hype or for the ebay possibilities. Wish i could have gone but i was in class all day and online was useless. feel like i want to invest in cos or real margiela or make my own. x

  50. Nailista says:

    I Saw Margiela’s pieces today at the store and I must say that they are BEAUTY, I dont’s mind what people say. I cant’s afford any of them but I would buy them all if I could. I felt in love with a pair of shoes with methacrylate heels.

  51. Nika says:

    Dit verhaal doet me eigenlijk geen deugd… Ten eerste vind ik de ontwerpen echt heel erg lelijk. Dat is een onderbouwde veronderstelling want ik heb er lang naar gekeken en over nagedacht maar ik vind deze collectie een gedeprimeerde kreet naar ‘originaliteit? Ligt dat onder deze lapjes?’. Maar dat terzijde. Je kiest er zelf voor om naar H&M te gaan en daar zijn natuurlijk meisjes met koopjes van Turkse Markten die totaal geen elegantie of geraffineerdheid in hun uiterlijk hebben, maar om daar nou op neer te kijken… Ik loop als 15-jarige ook rond op mijn school met knalrode lippen en een gigantische blauwe jas, maar dan ga ik niet neerkijken op mensen die een sweatvest en sneakers aanhebben. “de rest” is niet vies.

  52. For me, this is the most interesting collaboration yet: MMM is very much a label for ‘serious’ fashion connoisseurs, which is of course the exact opposite of H&M, which caters to possibly the broadest range of customers imaginable. I think it is to be applauded that both brands took the potentially plunge with such a strange collab, and of course to be able to buy a piece that is very true to the mainline aesthetic is a dream come true for me. I scooped the plexi ankle boots, but from the comfort of my laptop, not in store. I wonder what we will see next – Rick Owens for New Look?!?!?

  53. Your so inspiring, don’t stop blogging! Fashion needs you.

  54. Marta says:

    This comment has been removed by the author.

  55. Marta says:

    I would love to get myself something from the clothes, but I’m short and little and they’re not ‘oversize’, but make me look like a homeless person. I also chose this necklace and half of my school stopped me to ask what the hell am I wearing. I love it though!

  56. Nika, guys… I described the situation wit these girls to illustrate all the contradictions within this collaboration; screaming logos vs subtlety of MMM, anonymity vs. Kanye West & 9871727635 other celebrities, secret hidden stores vs. your local H&M…
    my point or intention isn’t to look down on anyone

  57. Nathan Moy says:

    Haha, love how you wrote “loud group of Kardashians”…. I understand how people like us who did a bit more research and know the history would feel this way, it saddens me that people tarnish the name like this. My opinion is very very similar to yours. I am both liking it and confused, I would say it’s H&M x Diesel Group. You should read my article/post if you haven’t already.

    My final saying is: I DON’T MIND BUYING IT, JUST DON’T BUY INTO IT.

    Which is why, I recently did a giveaway featuring an authentic Maison Martin Margiela piece, NOT a Margiela for H&M!

    xx The Provoker


  58. Jazz Banks says:

    So perfectly written

  59. ania cyk says:

    I totally agree with you Ivania! I think people just buy those thiings because they know they are on top right now! If only they weren’t signed by MMM, nobody would look at them! Of course the collection has some good pieces like the jewellery or leather jackets but many pieces are just too weird for casual streets. It’s a bit stupid that people are so into this collection and they don’t know anything about the real MMM aesthetics…

  60. TeuntjeVDW says:

    Well written and I agree with your point of view! It is good to stimulate this discussion! xx.

  61. Ik ben blij dat ik niet de enige ben! Al vanaf het nieuws uitkwam dat H&M en MMM gingen samenwerken was ik verbaasd. Gaat zo’n samenwerking nu net niet tegen Margiela’s principes van anonimiteit, originaliteit en anti-massaconsumptie in? Ik ben absoluut geen kenner, maar dit zijn toch echt twee uitersten. Ik snap het nog steeds niet.

  62. Jack Jones says:

    you have such a wanderful way of describing things, it’s as if we felt your trail of though evolving in the moment and could fully appreciate what you mean.

  63. Bogna says:

    I agree with you, most people I saw there were either saying out loud they were there to sell it more expensive on eBay, either they had no idea what those designs mean. That’s the problem of these mass productions, you touch a public that doesn’t understand the concept/the art behind fashion, thy are just there for the status.

  64. Rich Hippie says:

    my taughts exactly dude. wasn’t sure if it would be worth buying into the hype, or if this was finally an opportunity for lovers of MMM to AFFORD his work. But then again if they really wanted to cater to those who stare in amusement at those privileged enough, they’d produce an affordable line of there own, not with HM
    I don’t know how many people(including fashion blogger folk) even knew of MMM before HM…

  65. Had the same experiences here in Vienna at the Pre-Sale Event! Wanna-be’s and of course total fashion-experts (nope) running around with a glas of champagne in their hands grabbing stuff. Some didn’t like the stuff at all but „omg I buy a piece of e-v-e-r-y hm collaboration! it’s a must!!“ urgs. why?


  66. Paige says:

    wow love the closure on that bracelet–i would kill to pick that up but im not close to an h and m at the moment!

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  68. Anonymous says:

    This is by far the best and most well written blog entry I have ever read. The simple fact that you were able to immediately take note of how two polar opposites are able to come together to create the perfect balance of subtle yet hard to miss is refreshing.

  69. yay!
    this is the first time, i’m not disappointed by the collaboration!
    margiela is absolutely amazing!
    this is a great opportunity for MMM fans to buy these extraordinary clothes!


  70. Jade says:

    Couldn’t agree more with you. I haven’t bought a MMM x H&M piece (yet), because I’m really confused. On the one hand I like the pieces and I heard the quality is quite OK, but on the other hand it feels not right. It’s just not what I had in mind buying my first Margiela piece. The mass production just takes away the white exclusive magic of Margiela…

  71. ann kim says:

    Well said. I was also confused about the collaboration, nonetheless the clothes did not disappoint.

    I love the piece you got, can’t wait to see it on you.

  72. Chantelle says:

    I really love your honesty with this article. A lot of people won’t understand the beautiful wonders of MMM but now that it is mass produced.. will I like it as much? No idea. I too am confused.

  73. Stephanie G says:

    enjoyed reading this.. only wish i can actually get my hands on something being in australia.. h&m hasn’t any love for us just yet..! thought of you when i saw that necklace!

    steph /

  74. Amelie says:

    I recently talked about the exact same thing. On the one hand it’s the best collaboration ever on the other one it’s totally bizarre that Margiela cooperated with H&M. When I bought a piece I kind of bought the label too even though it doesn’t feel like there really is Margiela in it. But if someone ever gonna ask me where I got that (awesome) blazer from, I will say anyway “MMM” – just because I can. Best wishes from germany! Love your blog, of course.


  75. totally felt the way u did on those kardashian-esque girls.. there’s a lot of them

    anyway glad about yer mmm x hm experience..

  76. Aino says:

    Interesting point of view. I kind of was thinking the same about the collaboration. But I loved the pieces and had to buy couple for myself too 🙂

  77. Eleanor says:

    how am i only discovering your blog now?!?!?!?!

  78. i have to agree, the situation here was the same. and honestly, it’s a bit sad, it’s a bit funny.. but at the end of the day, it’s mainly, well, over. it’s not what margiela himself would have done probably, but the time for such thoughts has passed – there’s nothing we can do about it now, nor were we ever able to..
    but, love the choker! i wish i had gotten it, but it was it was not on my priority list, hence – no budget for it, haha.

  79. love your thoughs about about the collaboration. I have had mixed feeling about these collabs for years and it was the first time I camped out.
    The one thing that makes me furious are those blogger talking about how they ‘love the collection’ but have absolutely nog clue what they’re talking about. (Talking about ‘her’ collection”?)
    Also reading the fact that some people just buy a lot just so they can sell the pieces online afterwards..

  80. love your thoughs about about the collaboration. I have had mixed feeling about these collabs for years and it was the first time I camped out.
    The one thing that makes me furious are those blogger talking about how they ‘love the collection’ but have absolutely nog clue what they’re talking about. (Talking about ‘her’ collection”?)
    Also reading the fact that some people just buy a lot just so they can sell the pieces online afterwards..

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  82. Great blurb and thoughts on this collaboration. It’s really got me talking about this with a lot of my friends. Especially with all the controversy of labor laws broken to make this clothing and now a chart came out stating what companies are actually following labor laws and which aren’t and it seems that many well known companies don’t even follow half of the law. Thanks again for this, I love all of your posts!

  83. Marika says:

    so original brecelet!!!
    Love MMM!
    I invite you to visit my blog on, hope that you like it!

  84. As I have read more about this collaboration and the backlash against the use of MMM designs in conjunction with a fast fashion house the more I think the irony goes further than “the business of fashion” article states as well as the arguments that have critiqued making MMM’s exclusive and minimalist designs more attainable.

    I’m torn because it seems, from the majority of articles I have read about this collaboration, that there is an inherent irony (to many people) in taking a minimalist/subversive designer’s pieces and making them accessible. Yet isn’t this in itself a subversive act? Maybe now that exclusivity has become one of the more sought after aspects in the fashion world the subversive act is actually making your clothing more widely available. If people don’t understand or research the designs even better, right? Then you are really playing a kind of tongue and cheek joke on consumerism by literally spreading a minimalist message through the very medium you wish to subvert.


  85. parfums says:

    So beautiful post,

  86. OhSevenDays says:

    I agree that the MMM collection was probably the best H&M collaboration yet, however the hype around it seemed to outshine the finished product. When I managed to see the collection up close I wasn’t convinced about the quality. I had my eyes set on the perplex wedge heeled boots, but upon closer inspection, there were visible glue covering the seams and they most likely only last 4 or 5 wears. I know it’s H&M and you can’t expect immaculate craftsmanship, but I was expecting more from them considering they are still a sizable cost.

    Hopefully they’ll find a better factory for the next collab!

  87. Nanieke N says:

    When I see this I think: Yes this is YOUR style!

    Love, Nanieke

  88. Marika says:

    great stuff!
    I invite you to follow my blog on, hope that you like it!!

  89. ah i wish i could check out the collection, but i just moved to south america where there’s no h&m 🙁 and i’m keeping myself from the h&m website because i might get mildly depressed if i see anything i love but can’t buy!

  90. Anonymous says:

    I completely agree with how you feel. I actually work for the H&M company and I can tell you first hand that customers do not understand the privilege of being able to own designer re-editions. Every-time a designer collaboration comes around we get the same kind of people. “Where is the Armani stuff?” “Actually, it’s a Versace x H&M collaboration” “Whatever, where is it?” For people like that, its simply a novelty. They have no real interest in the artist, the craft or in fashion. They just want to own “designer”.

  91. ODYSSEY says:

    100% agree. Very well stated.

  92. I bought many of the MMM X HM designs… and I say just be happy you could get all these amazing designs in good quality for a relative low price. I got the red dress, the blue skirt and the key chain necklace you got too… and a few more stuff to be honest…I don’t know what designer I will be wearing at the end of the day but I know I will be well dressed!


  93. tahir sumar says:

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  94. Joyita Sengupta says:

    I couldn’t agree more. I was excited to finally own a re-edition from one of my favourite fashion houses as I couldn’t dream of affording anything by Margiela otherwise. But, I couldn’t get over the people who were at the store with me. Some were resellers, buying everything they could out to make a profit online. Others were the Kardashian types you mentioned that promptly grabbed the mirrored leggings and mourned the fact that all the candy clutches were sold out. There were wealthy, middle-aged women that bought into the hype but simply couldn’t understand why the clothes looked the way they did when they tried them on. Yes, that aspect of the experience was disappointing but the collection certainly wasn’t. While I do agree that Martin Margiela most likely wouldn’t have approved of the collaboration, I’m happy that I was able to purchase a piece that pays homage to his first collection. Sure, it’s not original Margiela but it’s all I can get for now and I will covet it.

  95. Anonymous says:

    Hey Ivania – interesting post though slightly ironic. If anything, regardless of brand/aesthetic/idea/any sort of justification we can provide, at the end of the day we’re all consumers. We’re all buying into a brand or style because it makes us feel a certain way. That makes the Kardashian shopper trying the fishnets at H&M no different than the random girl in MM at the bus stop. I wouldn’t say MM is immune to the conceptual perils of the fashion industry either – the brand, if anything, needs its consumers to survive so there will always be some compromise with “the idea.” I think, what matters, is whether or not you like the idea you bought into not because of the social constructs or brand associations giving it value (because that’s a long, dark road of psychoanalytical discussions) but, well, because you like it. Sweat shops in Bangladesh on the other hand…horrible!

  96. Anonymous says:

    thanks for your critical eye, dear ivania!
    the reason why I never worried about buying a h&m x mmm piece is that margiela HIMSELF sold his brand (and with it his ideas and creations) to the diesel group. no one forced him to do so. it was his own decision. and when you sell something to a businessman like renzo rosso (who owns a lot of other brands too) you are aware of the fact that your ideas could get commercialized.

  97. Ulrike says:

    Dear Ivania,

    Let me first tell you that I love your blog, and that I was excited to find that well-written article about your experience with the MMM-collection at H&M. I’m sorry for not having commented earlier but let me tell you what has happened to me.

    It seems as if like some people I too had no idea what I would buy into! As I never heard of this designer I was not aware of the history behind this collection. But some pieces looked so beautiful to me – for example the „oversized“ trousers, the black coat or the blue dress with the „three sleeves“. From the moment I saw that dress on a photo, I fell in love with it, but there was no chance for me to get it at H&M when the collection was in the stores. Last week I braced myself and bought it at ebay as a second-hand dress in a very good condition.

    Can you imagine what happened when I opened the parcel? I took me some time to get into it and when I looked into the mirror, my breath was taken away. But not for the reason that you might think of. The problem is very simple: although the dress had exactly my size, I got the feeling as if someone was trying to choke me. Maybe it’s a too tight neckline – or it might be weight of the fabric pulling downwards at my back. Can I say that I had no idea what I have bought into.? But no worries – I’ll keep it in my wardrobe for good and enjoy the feeling of the fabric and the beauty of the colour.


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